Water lilies (Nymphaea) and deep-water aquatics (biological type 1)

We begin here with the object of this "magnum opus" - the water lily and it's near relations. Because colour is often the most important factor in our choice of which cultivar to use; the following lists are divided into groups of similar colours. Other relevant features such as size, scent and water depth are discussed with each plant.

The genus Nymphaea includes all the water lilies in the world, distributed as they are in every country and continent except New Zealands.

Our own indigenous blue cape water lily is Nymphaea capensis and has been used as parent in many fine tropical hybrids. The hardy hybrid groups descend mainly from European and American parents such as Nymphaea alba odorata and Nymphaea tuberosa. Yellows and apricot colours owe their existence to the semi-tropical Nymphaea mexicana and other wild species of which more anon.

Their manner of growth is somewhat like an iris with thick rhizomes or tuberous rootstocks which creep 15cm or more annually across the mud on the pond floor. Allow for this when planting in a large pot or tub by placing the tuber right back against the edge with growing point inwards. Hardy plants should be at an angle; tropicals upright!

What follows is a description of various cultivars, colours and kinds put together in colour groups. Nymphaea react to depth of water, i.e. from crown to water surface. Each cultivar is rated with an a, b or c to indicate the relative vigour. Some plants are strong growing and their surface cover is proportionately more. Obviously the less vigorous varieties cover less.

The following divisions are a guide only as many will prove satisfactory in various depths of water other than that indicated.

a) strong growing forms for water 30cm deep

b) medium varieties 20cm-45cm

c) smaller kinds from 12cm-30cm

Pink Water Lilies All the pinks grow well in South Africa except in the steamy tropical areas, where hybrid tropical varieties predominate.

Very often it takes a season or two to develop their full colour and certainly the first blooms of the summer are often faded. In our strong sunlight they appear generally paler than in European illustrations.

• Mrs Richmond b dark, mottled pink blooms, often very large as they get established. Outer petals are paler. Typical "cup" shaped bloom floating on the water.

• Marliacea carnea - a or b similar to the foregoing but very much paler. They often appear as white with a pink blush at the petal's base. As they mature the colour deepens.

• Mme. Gonnere b a very rarely available plant, but worth searching for. Strong pink with masses of petals, almost "double" as in paeonies. The fat full buds and snowball like appearance is very telling in contrast to the large round kikuyu-green leaves.

• Llaydekerii lilacea c the dwarf varieties for tubs and splash pools. Soft two-tone pink flowers, small leaves and small flowers. Useful little charmer for shallow water.

• Amabilis b (pink star) salmon pink cultivar. Flowering prolifically from late November. The large blooms often stay open well into the evening.

• N. caroliniana c salmon pink- an unusual colour.

• Charles de Mervielle b sometimes available but often indistinguishable from Mrs. Richmond. Possibly the former is the correct name.

• Rose Arey b glowing pink with contrasting golden stamens. The bloom is uniquely "dahlia like" and scented.

• N. odorata turicensis b soft rose medium waterlily for shallow ponds-the round odorata type leaves are very attractive.

• Whites The cool green leaves and calm white of a waterlily in full spate is a sight not to miss in our hot African summer. Every pond thus, must have a proportion of white to set off and calm the brighter colours.

• Gladstoniana a largest of the whites but seldom-offered in SA. Useful for large dams.

• Gonnere b huge double flowers are worth waiting for. Even the fat bud looks edible!

• N. marliacea albida b possibly the best and certainly the most free flowering. pure white with green sepals.

• N. odorata alba - b or c the species from which our hybrids derive their hardiness. Smaller than albida, fragrant and useful in smaller ponds.

Yellow Water Lilies Descriptions with a warning follow here.

Throughout the country a 'wild' yellow called Nymphaea mexicana has established itself in ponds, dams and waterways. Dark, round, green leaves mound up out of the water followed somewhat sparsely by spikey, bright yellow flowers held well above the surface. This undesirable increases by "runners" much like a strawberry does and can choke a pond in one summer. It is also extremely difficult to eradicate.

• Chromatella b a thoroughgoing hybrid to be planted with confidence in your fishpond. Although the abovementioned Mexicana is one of it's ancestors, Chromatella behaves itself and is even semi-evergreen. Bright yellow and can take some shading. Mottled leaves.

• Odorata sulphurea c pretty sulphur yellow blooms, mottled leaves and great charm. For smaller ponds flowers spikey and faintly scented.

• Pygmaea helvola - c the smallest and prettiest little yellow imaginable. It grows in 6cm of water - even a small bowl on a sunny coffee table. If offered, don't hesitate.

• Sunrise - b this is a doubtful variety in SA generally recognised by speckled leaves, spikey and mid-yellow blooms and free flowering habit.

• Reds

• Escarboucle b the most common red available and really the best. It seems to prefer cold water rather than the warmer ponds of the sub-tropical areas. A good bright wine coloured flower.

• Elisiana c smallish in all its part and for shallow water. 'Garnet red flower but variable.

• Laydekeril purpurata- c & d rather freer flowering than the preceding cultivars. Laydekeril purpurata has dark pinkey crimson flowers-choice but rarely offered.

• Coppers & Apricots These colours often fade in our strong sunlight although still extremely attractive, and very much an essential in any collection.

• Sioux b the most common apricot in SA it seems less intense in colour than illustrated in English publications. Nevertheless it opens a spikey, soft yellow deepening to copper as it ages. Leaves spotted and speckled.

• Paul Haricot - c tiny copper for the small shallow pond -small leaves and small flowers. The colour is very variable from clear yellow to reddish copper as it gets on in life.

• Andreana / Indiana c although distinct plants in the literature these two seem to have become confused. Both are smallish, shallow water plants producing bright reddish copper flowers through relatively small leaves. Very desirable when available. Hopefully they will be sorted and separated in the near future.

Indigenous species & blue Water Lily varieties

• Nympahaea capensis is the wild waterlily extending from Zululand to Stellenbosch? It reached Kew, and from thence to USA in 1972 on board Hams Gorgon and has figured prominently in the breeding of many spectacular blue tropicals ever since. Easily grown except where limestone is present, Capensis flowers freely and sets masses of seeds annually. We have found it hardy in the north of Johannesburg down to about 8oc but it is doubtful that it will survive in colder regions. The flowers are sky blue but with bright yellow centres and green sepals. The blooms are perfumed, spicy and strongly pervasive. Cut blooms last well in a bright room.

• Nymphaea capensis does not have a creeping rootstock as previously described. The root is large and bulbous and will not reproduce as do other species from eyes or adventitious buds. Seed propagation is easy and usually successful.

• Nymphaea lotus rather more rare than the foregoing. In SA it is generally found in sub-tropical areas north of Durban. Often confused with the sacred lotus (Nelumbo) this is a true waterlily closely allied to N. Capensis. The bloom is creamy or white and is night flowering, from 5pm to 10am the following day.

• Nymphaea caerulea the third important indigenous species with similar characteristics to the previous two. The leaf margins are smooth and the blooms predominantly white. Each petal however is tipped with pale pink, blue or mauve, but the whole bloom is very variable.

Here is a simple comparative description of the species to help distinguish them one from the other.

1. Nymphaea lotus mature leaf, round, margin toothed, turned up at the edge. flowers creamy

2. Nymphaea capensis mature leaf lightly blotched, margins wavy and slightly blunt-toothed, flowers blue

3. Nymphaea caerulea mature leaf oval to round, margin smooth or wavy at base of the "v'. Flowers spikey white pink of mauve tips

Other blue species exist in Africa and around the world, notably Nymphaea gigantea from Australia and Nymphaea zanzibariensis is from the north. All require, with Nymphaea capensis, a composted rich topsoil mix which is slightly acid.. The planting container should be larger than normal, say at least 45cm of soil topped with gravel. Often the bulb has to be tied down before the plant starts to grow to prevent it floating out loose. Given a happy family atmosphere, plenty of grub and all the sunshine it needs, Capensis can be incredibly rewarding with masses of blooms throughout summer. It is good practice to remove old spent blooms which helps the plant to continue flowering vigorously.