Anchor worm treatment of gold fish and koi In Ponds

The descriptions of the common fish diseases such as anchor worm treatment have been deliberately kept simple to assist the understanding of the basic problems that may be encountered. This is a fascinating aspect of pond keeping and massive amounts of resource for further study can be found across the Internet. Treating parasite diseases like those caused by anchor worms need attention to prevent more serious koi ulcer diseases occurring

The key to disease control is observing gold fish or koi behavior. Any lasting changes to normal behavior should be investigated because this is the first indication that something in the pond might be wrong.

A correct diagnosis normally needs more in-depth examination often using a microscope.

Argulus is a crustacean parasite commonly found in ponds. They are greenish disc shaped organisms with suckers and small legs. These parasites transmit Aeromonas and other bacteria thereby infecting the fish they bite. Treatment is by specialized chemicals..

Lernea elegans is the most common type of Anchor worm affecting Koi. They multiply rapidly creating wounds invaded by Aeromonas bacteria which is the real problem. See article on general koi and gold fish health

Larger parasites such as leeches, lice and anchor worms (lernea) can be seen with the naked eye. Fish infested with parasites frequently rub themselves and this is called "flashing" (just as you see mullet flashing in shallow water at the seaside there is a flash of silver from the underside of the gold fish or koi as it turns its body to rub against something), Other symptoms are localised redness and inflammation on the body of the fish - especially the base of the dorsal fin - as well as breathing difficulties, a general lethargy and ulcers caused by bacterial infection (opportunistic attack). Poor water quality or other diseases can also show the same symptoms.

Always seek qualified help if unsure. Microscopic examination helps.

Dr Erik Johnson recommends that you use salt, before you try anything else for parasites for the following reasons ...

1) harmless to almost all fish

2) even if it does not cure it does not kill sick fish

3) most parasites are killed quickly

4) has little if any impact upon most pond systems and their bio filters and is unaffected by weather

5) safe to humans and animals

6) low cost

Salt kills these species ....

• Ichthyophthirius

• Chilodinella

• Costiasis (Ichthyobodo necatrix)

• Most Trichodiniid/Tripartiella organisms.

• Glossatella

• Scyphidia

• Epistylis

• Trichophrya

• External Tetrahymena

• Inhibits trematode reproduction, clears 30% of adults.

• Inhibits Lerneiid reproduction

this reference source is Dr Johnson of Koivet.com

Salt Dosage:  between 0.1 and 0.3 percent depending on severity. Take advice from specialist advisor if unsure. The salt should be non-iodized food grade and should be added in 3 lots spaced out at intervals of about 12 hours.

Dr Erik Johnson of koivet.com has provided the following salt treatment schedule to remove Ich and most other parasites ...

1. Remove valued live plants.

2. Raise temperature to 80 degrees F (26 degrees C max), tops.

3. Increase aeration! ... always important in any stress situation

4. Add one teaspoon of salt per US gallon.

5. Twelve hours later, add another one teaspoon of salt per US gallon.

6. Twelve hours later, add another one teaspoon of salt per US gallon.

7. Within 48-60 hours of the second salt dose at 80 degrees, the Ich will be gone.

8. Leave salt in the water for another 3-5 days unless you're worried about your live plants.

9. Remove salt via partial water changes. (30-40% at a time if desired).

To convert to Imperial gallons the factor is 1 Imperial gallon is 1.2 US gallons

Please also check out this UK Pond Doctor site

What to do if you suspect disease problems

Test for Ammonia, Nitrite, and pH at a minimum, and preferably also test for Total Alkalinity and possibly Hardness.

Ammonias are lethal in their own right and worse at higher pH. If dead fish exist this will also create ammonia problem. pH can change overnight if the system loses its buffering capacity (this would show on a test of Total Alkalinity)

Aquarium Pharmaceuticals basic drop type test kits are most accurate according to experts. Review USA on-line pond supplies

In the case of Ammonia accumulation:

If water quality is suspect begin a systematic daily changing of 20-40% of the total volume in the system. But beware of major temperature changes the system. A small addition of salt at .1% level will do no harm.